The Bridal Path

Many books have been written about the Pacific Ocean - a subject measuring 64,000,000 square miles has made this easy, and so the travels of 'The Bride' in eighteen months have been by this standard brief. However by the time 'The last of the Bays' reaches England she will have steamed approximately 44,700 miles this commission, and even this, judged in time, events and places, would make a long story.

On July 15, 1960, HMS ST BRIDES BAY recommissioned in Singapore, and after sailing for a short four-day 'shake-down' round the tropical paradise of Pulau Tioman she was thrown on the mercy of the dockyard for three months of torrid refit.

The last week in October saw her once again steaming the waters of the Singapore Straits engaged in trials and weapon adjustments: these being satisfactory, we began our work-up and soon settled down into being a closely-knit team of a ship and her company. On November 17, 'The Bride' sailed in company with HMAS QUICKMATCH to rendezvous with the Captain F3 in the South China Sea and to take part in 'Exercise Swansong'. Oh the 21st the 3rd Frigate Squadron, together for the last time, shaped course for Singapore. After five days in harbour we sailed in company with HMS CARDIGAN BAY for our Pacific Cruise, the enticing prospects of which had spurred us on throughout the dreary refit. With the spirit of Captain Cook rising in his breast the Navigator took a bearing of Horsburgh Lighthouse for the last time for exactly four months.

For eleven days the two frigates wound their way through the islands of the Eastern Archipelago, through the Java and Flores Seas past Timor and on to the Torres Strait. At 0030 on November 30 we crossed the Equator for the first time, and although this has now become a commonplace event, the first occasion was given the usual significance and the ceremonies were thoroughly enjoyed by all.

The lovely weather that we were to accept as 'Bride's weather' continued as we steamed south through the Great Barrier Reef to Townsville, which lies on the north coast of Queensland some hundred miles north of the Tropic of Capricorn. This was the first visit to Australia for many of us, but in the two days that we spent there we were able to meet many hospitable people and we tried very hard to measure up to Australian drinking habits. It is rumoured that one or two of us even saw some kangaroos in the 'outback'. On December 12 we left Queensland astern again and set course for a little French familiarisation in New Caledonia: four days on passage gave time to look forward to this, and on 16th we entered the encircling coral reefs of Noumea and secured alongside. Noumea, with its French influence on a Pacific way of life, we found an extremely pleasant place, and it was with some regret that after four days we bade adieu.

As the flying fish skimmed gracefully away from the bows and the sun climbed high over the yardarm, we slipped peacefully over the Pacific towards Fiji, where we were to spend Christmas; the BBC news that spoke of gales in the Channel and fog in the south of England seemed almost to tell of a different world. Two days before Christmas both ships arrived for a stay of five days in Suva, and we thoroughly enjoyed the hospitality both of the local villagers and of the resident Europeans. We were welcomed alongside by a colourful Fijian band; and amongst the many happy memories will be that of the visit to a native village and the tremendously moving farewell that they gave us after a splendid day of dancing and feasting.

On the morning of December 28 we shaped course for Samoa, arriving in Apia - where Robert Louis Stevenson lies buried - on the 29th. During this passage we crossed the International Date Line and so in fact had two Thursdays 29ths! Apia harbour is small and surrounded by coral reefs except for a narrow entrance, and the havoc caused by bygone typhoons is plainly visible where the stark remains of once proud ships lie broken on the reefs. Our stay in Apia saw the passing of the Old Year and the celebrations ashore will long be remembered. Those few of us who remained 'duty bound' on board however were allowed a share of the fun and a firework display was put on by the two ships - this coincided with a power failure ashore which did nothing to detract from the fun.

On Sunday January 1 both ships slipped quietly out of harbour and set off for Honolulu on the last leg of their combined cruise. The evening before our arrival there was the last occasion of the sun's setting on two Bay Class frigates at sea together, and it was marked by the firing of a salute by Captain F. as a rehearsal for the following day's national salutes to the United States. Those who kept the middle watch as we approached Honolulu enjoyed the most remarkable and lovely view of the island as it drew closer through the cool and calm night. Diamond Head lived up to its name, and the hundreds of little lights clustered together on each side of the headland looked for all the world like two fabulously expensive diamond bracelets; whilst away' to the left the memorable vista of Waikiki Beach by night beckoned us towards 'downtown' Honolulu - the commercial port of the island where we were to fuel.

Having refueled, the two frigates steamed the short distance along the coast to Pearl Harbour and there secured alongside each other for a hectic week's visit to that most popular and expensive of American States. The United States Navy provided a stirring musical welcome, and throughout our stay proved very generous hosts as we were again to discover in Japan.

On January 16 we sailed down battle-scarred Pearl Harbour and, after farewell and good luck messages had been exchanged, HMS CARDIGAN BAY turned eastwards to explore the United States on her way back to England, whilst 'The Bride' set a south westerly course for the Gilbert and Ellice Islands and the true magic of the Pacific. This was our first passage alone, and we were to become used in the weeks ahead of enjoying our solitude and 'our' weather. With a gentle following breeze and a long, lazy ocean swell we made good time, and having re-crossed the dateline (thereby completely losing Monday January 23), arrived off Funafuti Atoll at 0700 on Wednesday 25th. On first sighting, the atoll was distinguishable only by the tall palm tree which rose apparently from mid-ocean.

Creeping in through the narrow entrance channel into the lagoon was our first experience of coral navigation in poorly charted waters and one could well appreciate the hazards that beset the earlier navigators who first explored this part of the world with none of the blessings of modern equipment. Between January 25 and February 1 we had arranged to visit Funafuti, Nanumea, Onotoa and Tarawa, so there was little margin for delays due to weather and the possible inability to land boats. Luckily the weather was kind to us, so none of the Islanders was disappointed. They responded heartily and in each place gave a most resounding welcome, which was touching in its simplicity and sincerity.

Usually there was a welcoming ceremony soon after arrival, on the beach, and with presentations of local handicrafts and fruit; then for the rest of the day sightseeing, swimming and games. In the evening came a traditional feast followed by singing and dancing. The epic cricket match played against the 'Ladies of Funafuti' is described elsewhere and it is very difficult to despatch these unique visits in so few lines. The simple charm and genuine sincerity of these far distant members of the Commonwealth left a lasting impression upon all who went ashore. The moonlit canoe race in Onotoa, the gusto with which the visitors took part in the native dancing at Nanumea and the devotion with which the children sang 'God Save the Queen' will long be remembered. It may be many years before some of these islands are again visited by an HM Ship- the last one to have visited Onotoa was HMS VERONICA in 1926 - and it was humbling to realize the importance that they attached to our coming. We hope that they will remember those happy days as vividly as we will.

After a busy two-day visit to Tarawa, the port of entry into the Gilbert Islands where so much bitter fighting had taken place during the war, we sailed Out of the treacherous lagoon on Wednesday February 1 and shaped course for the small Australian Naval Base at Manus in the Admiralty Islands. Once again we were blessed with fair weather and arrived for our badly needed fuelling on the 6th, having steamed some 4,100 since leaving Honolulu. As our stay in Manus was primarily for fuelling it was only a short one of 24 hours, however a crowded programme had been laid on for us and it seemed that the local inhabitants of HMAS TARANGAU thoroughly enjoyed seeing some new faces.

We were now back in western civilisation, and although the model canoes, feather fans and grass skirts of the Pacific islands began to gather dust, the memories lingered-and linger still.

On a north westerly course from Manus we steamed past the Caroline and Palan Islands and into Philippines along the same track that Magellan took in the 17th century. On Monday February 13 we arrived at Ilo Ilo for a two-day visit and again found ourselves caught in a whirl of entertainment. This was only the second visit by one of HM Ships in recent years and the festivities had been planned accordingly. We were, incidentally, religiously guarded by a posse of policemen armed to the teeth whose duty it was to see that we were properly entertained and not over-charged. The degree of hospitality shown to us was indicated by the fact that this duty was also extended to the various night-clubs - which I am told some of us visited! At 0900 on Wednesday 15th, the day of the Chinese New Year, we sailed down the channel from Ilo Ilo and turned around the southern tip of Panay to steer north-west for Hong Kong, arriving on Saturday 18th. As we steamed through Ley Mun Pass and on past junks and sampans, walla-walla boats and ferries, North Point and Wanchai, it became apparent that the Chinese New Year, which we had seen start in Ilo Ilo, was still being celebrated, and that few people had yet gone back to work. At 1000, when we secured in Victoria Basin, we had steamed almost 15,000 miles since leaving Singapore.

We remained in Hong Kong until March 24 and during this time spent nine days at sea exercising in the local areas, mainly with HM Submarine AMBUSH. It was the first time in Hong Kong for many of us, and the days - and nights - were spent exploring the delights of the colony and living our own versions of the stories that we had heard. Shortly before we left the Welfare Committee treated us to a Ship's Company Party in the China Fleet Chub where we dined splendidly on beer and chicken and then took a lively part in the floor show.

On March 24 we sailed, and, after carrying out a patrol round the western side of the island, set course for Singapore. Whilst on this patrol we were in fact, although still in territorial waters, within range of communist shore batteries on the adjacent islands. The passage through the South China Sea was uneventful but busy, for preparations for our coming Annual Inspection were pressing and everybody was kept hard at it. Having arrived in Singapore on the 29th we had a short respite over the weekend and then went straight into the inspection which was carried out by the Captain (D), 8th Destroyer Squadron. The flurry and bustle of the inspection over, we once more went into dockyard hands for a short docking, and remained so in Singapore until May 9.

The next two weeks found us on anti-piracy patrol off north-east Borneo and the continuing lovely weather made this a very pleasant operational duty. It was the first time that the ship had been called upon to carry out an operational role and we went into it with enthusiasm: our efforts were rewarded by the capture of a pirate 'Kumpit'. During the patrol we had time for a fleeting visit of 24 hours to Tawau where we combined the landing of prisoners with other more social activities. We finally left the area on Saturday May 20, once more bound for Hong Kong where we were to assume the duties of Guard Ship. On passage, whilst we were enjoying the millpond conditions of the Sulu Sea and the magnificent scenery of the mountainous Philippine coastline, Hong Kong herself was being lashed by typhoon Alice, and I'm afraid to say that a sly grin flitted across faces as the sunbathing continued.

Our Japanese cruise had been shortened and so we only had nineteen days away from Hong Kong - seven of which were spent at Yokosuka and the remainder on passage to and from. Here again the United States Navy proved themselves admirable hosts, both in laying on every facility for us in the Naval Base, and in providing tours and sightseeing trips to enable us to get out and see the real Japan. Unfortunately Mount Fuji remained obscured by cloud throughout our stay, but there were many other typically Japanese sights to be seen and time was not wasted. During our stay in Yokosuka we were joined by HM Submarine TACTICIAN and with her struck up a very congenial liaison which lasted throughout our return trip to Hong Kong together.

The evening of June 27 saw us once more in Hong Kong for what was to have been our final visit of seven days - however programmes change, and we found ourselves in fact staying until July 25, when, with sorrowing hearts and lighter purses, we again sailed for Singapore.

Our future programme entails exercise 'Tucker Box' in the Coral Sea, followed by visits to Brisbane, Mackay, Cairns and Darwin; returning to Singapore at the end of September for the final docking before setting off on the 8,000 mile home stretch early in November.

I think that most of us will carry home a rich store of memories from the places we have been to and the people we have met and I hope that everyone has enjoyed it all as much as I have.