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I joined the ship in Auckland on 29th May, 1957, along with Peter Murison, as (almost) brand new Acting Sub Lieutenants, anticipating that having shed our Midshipman's white patches we would now have to do some proper work. Our time as Midshipmen in HMS Newcastle had included the Olympic Games at Melbourne , while the other cruiser, HMS Newfoundland, went to Suez , followed after Christmas in Hong Kong by six weeks in the Persian Gulf showing the flag and playing cricket in such diverse places as Basra and Muscat . We arrived in Auckland to join the ship on board HMNZS Kaniere, (who boasted an unbeaten rugby XV).

Five days later we sailed for our cruise round the Pacific islands taking with us the New Zealand diplomat responsible for the administration of many of the islands. First stop Fiji where we first experienced barefoot rugby and the ball being passed overhead from one wing to another (fortunately I cannot remember the score!). Then on to Apia, Western Samoa, where we met the gorgeous dentist's wife who had the previous year starred in the film "A Pattern of Islands", and where we visited the beach at Lefanga that featured in the film. To use that beach we had to get permission from the Chief of the nearby village and exchange gifts. We gave him tinned ham (known locally as "Soupo Pea" to distinguish it from similar tins of pea soup brought by the Americans in the war known as "Pea Soupo"!) and we received beaded necklaces. A very memorable day!

From there we went to the Tokelau Islands – all small volcanic atolls surrounded by coral reefs enclosing a lagoon and a fairly rudimentary landing stage. Average population about 500 with a similar number of chickens, but some interesting differences between them. Outside the reefs the water was exceptionally deep, so the ship had to cruise round during our visits. The Captain detailed me off to collect stamps at each island, so I was fortunate in getting ashore at each of them. (I still have the stamps!)

At each island it was necessary to ride the surf over the reef to get into the lagoon. At Nukunono the natives came out to us in outrigger canoes, and took us over the reef into the lagoon. By the time we reached Fakaofo, the whaler's crew had become adept at timing the moment to ride the surf over the coral, and provided a very exciting ride in. At each island there was a post office cum shop where we could buy mementoes such as model canoes and rush mats. At Nukunono trading was in razor blades, and at Fakaofo bars of soap. Having stocked up with both commodities for the visit to Atafu we found that the natives there wanted paper money! The visit to Atafu was made most memorable by the welcome we were given at the landing stage. The whole island was there to greet us, and as we made our way up the palm leaf strewn path to the Meeting House they sang God save the Queen in descant. How I wished that tape recorders had been invented then!

In the evening, after the serious business of the Elders meeting the Administrator, the islanders then put on a "Fia Fia" which consisted of a sing song in groups. Normally there would have been three – the men, the women, and the children – but we were required to form another. The singing was wonderful, and we passed on the first invitation to join in. However, they were not to be denied, so we sang a fairly robust version of the Oggie Song, so much to their delight that we had to give two encores!

While writing this today I am really pleased to find out on the internet that the islands still have no airstrip, and that life there (with the exception of satellite TV) may be virtually the same as it was 50 years ago.

Back then to Apia , where we took on the local schools rugby team. At the end we had the unusual situation where we were all in their half and they in ours – the only difference being that they had the ball! Did they beat us 65-0 or 56-0? I can't remember. The experience in Tonga a week later was not all that different! After that I was not at all surprised at the performance of Samoa , Tonga and Fiji in the recent rugby world cup! We dropped the New Zealand administrator off at Suva and as we left well-wishers on the jetty sang that wonderful haunting Fijian song of farewell – Isa Lei.

We next went on to some visits in the Guadalcanal group of islands. At Wanoni Bay we were the first warship to visit there after the war, and they showed their relief at having a peaceful visit at last. Rows of bare-bossomed girls met us on the beach and sang a welcome song. (There might have been some men as well, but I didn't notice them). A feast was laid out for us on banana leaves in a field, with food provided by every family on the island. There were some interesting mainly vegetarian dishes, fortunately supplemented by hunks of beef from a cow that had been roasted the day before in a pit in the ground filled with hot stones – delicious! The feast was followed by a dancing display, and we were relieved that we were not asked to put on our own show!

Our pacific island cruise ended with visits to Honiara, Gizo and Manus (can anyone remember what happened at those ports, apart from a ships company dance at Honiara?) and about eight days later our arrival in Hong Kong. There we spent some incredibly hot days at the bottom of the Dry dock before our final passage to Singapore , the end of the commission and flights home to our families.

I hope this short account of our pacific island cruise will bring back some happy memories of the kind of duty that matelots these days are unfortunately never likely to experience.